The forward domes and T-bar support greeblies where printed on my EPAX X1 printer using EPAX Hard Resin. They turned out very well considering the size of the parts.
The T-Bar is Plastruct T-8, 90086. For a 1/29 scale Y-Wing, the length of the T-Bar works out to about 11 inches. A notch needs to be cut in the forward end of the T-Bar to allow it to slide under the T-Bar supports.
I started painting the pilot figure. Duplicating my effort from my Blue Leader build, I repositioned the figures arms to give it a more natural look.
The figure was primed with Tamiya White Primer. After drying for a few days, I began painting. The first color is Pure Orange thinned as to give an almost transparent orange tint to the figure. I let each layer fully dry between coats until the figure’s flight suit is a solid color. The shadows are accomplished by mixing a drop of black into the pure orange.
Once satisfied with the flight suit, I move one to the belts which are paint “gray”. I picked out some of the details with “light gray”.
The boots and gloves are flat black.
Once everything has dried, I sprayed the figure with a nice shiny layer of Glosscoat and set aside to dry. It’s important that you seal the figure. Handling the figure will rub the acrylic paint off.
I painted the visor Model Master Magnesium. It’s important to do this while the model has a gloss finish. The paint flows better.
Next up was adding some markings to the helmet. I went to the spares box and found what I felt were decals to make it look interesting.
One the decals were set and dry, I sealed everything with Dullcoat.
I recently purchased and downloaded a 3D model from Sci-Fi Scale Models. What you see above is printed on both a Form3 and EPAX X1 SLA 3D printer.
Overall, the detail is very well represented. There are options to print the model as a blank canvas and print/attach all the greeblies similar to ILM or print each part as complete assemblies. I opted to print each part complete.
This is version 2 of the 3D model. A version 3 is in the works with changes in some detail parts and parts break down. When it arrives, I’ll will be purchasing the new version of the Model Y kit.
My Blue Leader project was never intended to be any Blue Leader in particular. It’s a mix of Project 504, Red 2 and Blue Leader (Rogue One).
With that, it was never my intention of using a Rebel pilot in this build. I wanted the ILM style pilot. Unfortunately, that pilot figure wasn’t available for the Revell kit.
That is until now. I found a 3D file of the ILM pilot that I could print on my SLA printer.
I didn’t like the position of the arms or the head. So, once the figure was printed, I cut off the arms and head. I repositioned them to a more natural position.
I primed the figure with Tamiya Gray Fine Surface Primer. Once dry, I painted the flightsuit Model Master Cobalt Blue. Using a custom mix of colors of lighter and darker shades for highlights and shadows. I painted the helmet white with gunmetal visor. The gloves and boots were painted flat black. The stairs and house are painted neutral gray.
The helmet was decorated with various decals from the spares box.
I sealed the figure with a light coat of dull coat.
The engines are finally attached to Blue Leader! Now, it’s looking like an X-Wing. I still need to weather the engines to match the rest of the build, but this X-Wing is turning out better than I had expected.
It was totally worth the wait on these replacements. I want to send out a BIG thank you to the person who made these available to me.
I went back and forth on using the kit engines versus a replacement. I’m especially happy with these results. it really puts this build over the top.
After a short hiatus, it was time to work Blue Leader again. The cannon main bodies were attached to the s-foils using MA310 adhesive.
The cannon main bodies are Falcon3DParts as are the the forward heat sinks and collars.
The cannons themselves are the kit cannons modified. I removed the tips and replaced them with brass tube. I drilled out the the cannon and inserted brass tube to reinforce it and extended into the main body.
The entire assembly fits into a 5/16 styrene tube that runs the entire length of the cannon main body.
I don’t know what everyone is using to attach resin parts together. You may be using CA, Gorilla glue or some other adhesive. I have been told by a well known member of the Star Wars model replica community about a better adhesive: Plexus MA310.
This stuff is strong…I mean STRONG! You’ll break the model apart before the bond breaks. It does have a working time and sets up in about 8 minutes. Once it’s set, it’s set.
This was perfect for the cannon bodies. On my last X-Wing, I did a bunch of measuring, drilling holes and pinning the cannons. It was a pain. This was a much easier and better solution.
This Y-Wing is a tad different. This is the DaveG model, but resized to complement the Revell large scale X-Wing model kit.
While the scale of the Revell X-Wing has been stated as 1/29 scale, using the accepted dimensions of a Studio Scale (1/24) X-Wing and applying that to the Revell kit, it actually works out to 1/31 scale. Using this logic applied to the DaveG stl files requires a reduction of 22.8%. The key to making all of this work out is the droid figure. The droid canister is 15mm. The opening on the X-Wing is 15.1mm. The opening on the resized DaveG file with the 22.8% reduction is exactly 15.1mm. So, the math works out.
The real challenge will be finding greeblies to apply to the model. Since this isn’t the standard studio scale model, kit bashing with the correct parts will be near impossible. The only option for 100% accuracy is asking Falcon3DParts to resize there current line of DaveG greeblie sets to the size I need.
As of now, I have the the ship mocked up. The armature and supports are styrene with either smaller styrene tubing or brass tubing installed for rigidity. The “wing”, as of now, is stacked styrene sheets. This will probably change to eithe all metal or a single ply of aluminum with styrene sheets laminated to it.
Moving on to one of more fun aspects of creating these models, chipping the paint. To create this effect, I use Humbrol Maskol. I mask of the area to be painted and then apply the Maskol randomly to the area to be painted.
Once the paint has dried, I remove the paint and gently rub the area and the Maskol will peel off. This effect looks great.
Once I was done with the intakes, I cleaned up my airbrush and mixed up some Grime. I sprayed he recesses of the S-Fiols, the engine area, the droid strip and some streaking. Grime gives the X-Wing a bit of a dirty look. I didn’t want to heavy with it as Blue Leader really wasn’t that dirty of a miniature. Actually, it was pretty clean when compared to the later Red 2 version of itself.
Additionally, I painted the areas aft of the nacelles Grime as well. I did this because painting under them will be difficult once the engines are installed.