Now, it’s starting to look like Blue Leader. After looking at a few different shades of blue, I decided to go with Vallejo Dark Blue for the markings. It’s a little bit light for the original Blue Leader and Rogue One Blue Leader. Although, I think it will all work out when it’s all said and done. There’s going to be a few layers of paint on top of it.
I also applied the blue markings on the aft fuselage. These a stripe on top over the back parts cluster.
There is also a larger blue stripe on the bottom aft fuselage as well.
It was time to start applying some of the colors to the fuselage. I have decided that while I’m going to portray Blue Leader, I’m not going to do the original Blue Leader or the Rogue One Blue Leader. This build is going to be a mash up of both ships with some artistic license thrown in.
The base coat is Archive X Reefer White. Once that was dry, I lightly sanded the fuselage to thin the white paint. This allowed the black paint to show through.
The next step was applying gray around the canopy. This was painted with Model Master Neutral Gray (FS36270). I also applied Neutral Gray to other panels as well.
The next step was to start adding other grays. The next color I choose was Model Master Light Gray. It’s interesting, on its own, Light Gray looks almost white….until you apply it over white. Using more artistic license, I chose areas that I thought would look best with Light Gray applied. Once I was satisfied with my application, I then chose Model Master Light Ghost Gray for some panels. To tone down the entire fuselage, I lightly sprayed Light Ghost Gray over the fuselage.
This is the first round of colors. There will be more, the blue stripe down the sides, yellow, various other colors.
Not much to write, this go around, but I did get some Reefer White applied to the fuselage.
I applied just enough white to make it appear white. In then sanded the fuselage with 800 grit wet/dry to expose the black underneath, but I didn’t want a uniform appearance so lazily sanded it, exposing more black in some place versus others.
I normally don’t do this, but this was too good not to share. Bill George did this model. I’ll let his text do the explaining:
“For season 2 of Star Wars: Resistance I was asked to design a modified version of the original X-wing. The idea was that it started as a Jedi-era standard X-wing that was souped up by its owner to make it faster and more lethal.
For the model, I started with studio scale X-wing castings from Jason Eaton and Mike Salzo as a base and added the modifications. It was a very fun project to do. From this model they created the CG version for the show.”
I’m sorry that I haven’t posted here in a while. With the current state of quarantine due to COVID-19, my workbench has been transformed into my home office desk. Needless to say there hasn’t been much scale modeling going on.
Today, I pulled out Blue Leader and started work on it again. I finished priming the entire model with Tamiya Gray Primer. Once it was dry, I lightly sanded the X-Wing to smooth everything out. I then started on the overall black. I realized that I N only had one can of Model Master flat black spray paint. At least the bottom and part of the top fuselage got painted. I will have to make a run to the local Hobby Lobby to pick up more. I hope I can have this entire thing painted black by the end of May.
Installing the Falcon 3D Parts Back Parts Cluster for the Revell 1/29th scale kit is pretty straight forward.
The first thing your going to have to do is remove the lip that holds in the stock kit part. You can go about this many ways.
1. You can sand it down flush
2. Cut it out
3. Using a scribing tool, you can scribe it out.
Using my scribing tool, I went along the outside edge until I cut part way through the plastic. I then used my sprue cutters to cut the lip out.
I then sanded any raised areas flush. I ended up with a few bucks in the plastic. I decided to go ahead and fill the entire area with 3M acrylic putty.
Once dry, sand the area smooth to remove the excess filler.
I found that the new part is a little taller than the kit part. I sanded down the top part of the engine cluster until both fuselage halves closed flush.
Be careful doing this. You don’t want to take off too much. Sand cautiously.
Once this was done I fitted the insert to the cluster and found that it too was too tall. The required sanding the insert as well. Once again, sand cautiously. Take your time and check the fit of the insert. Constantly dry fit the parts to ensure a proper fit.