Installing the Back Parts Cluster

Installing the Falcon 3D Parts Back Parts Cluster for the Revell 1/29th scale kit is pretty straight forward.

The first thing your going to have to do is remove the lip that holds in the stock kit part. You can go about this many ways.

1. You can sand it down flush

2. Cut it out

3. Using a scribing tool, you can scribe it out.

Using my scribing tool, I went along the outside edge until I cut part way through the plastic. I then used my sprue cutters to cut the lip out.

I then sanded any raised areas flush. I ended up with a few bucks in the plastic. I decided to go ahead and fill the entire area with 3M acrylic putty.

Once dry, sand the area smooth to remove the excess filler.

I found that the new part is a little taller than the kit part. I sanded down the top part of the engine cluster until both fuselage halves closed flush.

Be careful doing this. You don’t want to take off too much. Sand cautiously.

Once this was done I fitted the insert to the cluster and found that it too was too tall. The required sanding the insert as well. Once again, sand cautiously. Take your time and check the fit of the insert. Constantly dry fit the parts to ensure a proper fit.

Once done, it should look like this:

Removing the canon mounts.

Following in the footsteps of the Red 5 build, I’ve decided to remove the inaccurate cannon plant on details and inaccurate canons themselves.

Removing this from the kit is pretty labor intensive. Lots of sanding. You have to be careful to not sand off too much. It’s easy to do.

I will be using Falcon 3D Parts replacements for the removed detail. The quality is great and it’s spot on to the ILM model.

Deagostini Millennium Falcon Update

For awhile, all you great subscribers to this page, have seen mostly X-Wing builds. So, here’s a change of pace.

Here’s my Deagostini Millennium Falcon. I haven’t touched this thing in a while. That’s because it’s a huge project. The most daunting question I keep asking myself is “Where am I going to put it?” I’ve decided, once again, to go the ILM route and display it the way it was meant to be displayed, in a flight mode configuration and supported the way ILM did it.

Here’s the mount I’ve come up with. It’s a modified projector mount from Amazon. There was some modification involved. I had to enlarge the mounting holes on the arms, remove the swivel mount (which was quite involved). Then I had to make a trip to Lowes to get 3/8 threaded stock and nuts and washers.

As you can see in the pics, I still have to cut down the threaded stock. The biggest drawback of doing this… No interior detail. The mount encroaches in the area where the interior insert goes. The ILM model didn’t have it and I guess mine won’t either.

A Different Approach.

Why Revell made the upper fuselage of their X-wing four separate pieces, I have no idea.

With my Red 5 build, I basically waited until the end to put these pieces in place. Not this time.

Since I’m correcting the weird stepped panels anyway, I have to do the same thing on the three forward fuselage pieces. So, I decided to glue the three pieces to the lower fuselage half. I made sure that I lined up the upper panel lines. (This is a nightmare of you wait until the of your build, as I found out.) You need to remove the protrusion that extends from the main upper fuselage part. This is the part with the cockpit, droid area, etc… It doesn’t serve any purpose any way. Take your handy dandy razor saw and cut it off.

I have the pieces attached to the lower fuselage half. I will end up rescribing a lot of this area due to removing the inaccuracies and smoothing out filler at the join areas.

Reworking the Cockpit.

Modified and Primed Cockpit

The Revell cockpit is pretty bad. I removed a lot of the moulded on details. I’m in process of adding the hoses, actuators and whatever else I think will look good on it.

With a quick coat of Tamiya printer gray, it doesn’t look too bad.

Correcting the fuselage

I don’t know why Revell did it, but the put what appears to be overlapping panels under the canopy down the side of the upper and lower half of the fuselage. The filming models were flat with panel lines scribed into the plastic.To fix this, I used 220 grit and paper and smoothed out the overlapping panels. I then scribed new panel lines. The result is amazing. Now this looks correct.